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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known high-end venues. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.